Let’s talk about numbers.
In 2018, the Indian saree market was valued at 400 billion Rupees, with eight out of every ten households purchasing at least one saree in the year. According to official reports, 85% of rural households bought at least one saree, while only 74% did so in urban India. To say the saree is an Indian staple is an understatement.
Source: Statistica
In a country with multiple cultures, religions, customs, languages and more, the saree is one thing that unites us. From the north to the south, east to the west, in varying degrees, the saree is much loved and is seen as the epitome of ethnic wear. Let’s go beyond the weave and find out when, where and how the saree came to be.
Threads from the past – the history of saree
The origins of the saree can be traced back to its first appearance during the Indus Valley Civilisation, circa 2800-1800 BC. Its emergence coincided with the discovery of cotton and the subsequent weaving into clothing in the Indus Valley. Around that time, weavers also began to use dyes like indigo, red, and yellow to add colour to their cotton weaves in the Indus Valley. And thus, was born ‘the drape’ that Indian women used to cover their modesty. In addition, the unstitched garment fitted in well with the ancient Hindu belief that stitching cloth can make it impure. Over time, the saree evolved from plain white cotton to dyed cotton to embroidered sarees that showcased the person’s wealth, eventually made from different materials with a range of embroidery work.
What’s in a name?
According to Wikipedia, the name ‘saree’ has evolved from the term śāṭikā (Sanskrit: शाटिका) mentioned in early Jain and Buddhist literature. It meant women’s attire. The Sattika was a three-piece ensemble comprising the antarīya, the lower garment; the uttarīya; a veil worn over the shoulder or the head; and the stanapatta, a chestband. The Antriya resembled the dhoti or the fishtail style of tying a saree. It evolved into the Bhairnivasani skirt, which went on to be known as ghagra or lehenga. Uttariya evolved into the dupatta, and Stanapatta evolved into the choli.
Foreign influence
Every ruling group has had a part to play in making the saree what it is today. The Persians introduced ancient Indians to the art of stitching. They also wore clothing that was belted at the waist and held together at the shoulder. The saree soon adapted these modifications. The Persians also introduced ancient Indians to the art of encrusting gems and jewels on to cloth. Greeks wore cummerbunds or cloth belts around their waist. This, too, was adapted into the Indian way of wearing the saree. The Mughals had a great fascination for silk clothes and elegant fashion. The modern saree, as we know it, evolved during this time. It is reported that there must have been over five hundred natural dyes for fabric during the Mughal period. Then Kadambari Devi, the sister-in-law of Rabindra Nath Tagore, was said to have introduced the art of pleating the saree. Up till that point, the saree was worn as a single sheath or single piece. It is said that she pleated the saree and even advertised in newspapers to inspire women to wear the saree in that manner.
Today, there are over 100 style variations of wearing the saree and many more options in terms of material, embroidery, and embellishments.
Saree by occasion
The humble saree is worn while slaving over a hot stove or while walking the ramp at an exclusive fashion show.
Every day sarees are light and easy to wear. Typically made from cotton or a cotton blend, they need to be breathable and easy to keep clean. Partywear sarees are all about glitz and glamour. Popping colours and rich embroidery rule the fashion trends there. Wedding wear sarees fall into two categories—the traditional and the non-traditional. Traditional wedding wear sarees include classics like silks, while non-traditional could include velvet. Festive-wear sarees include designer sarees in silk or net material.
With so much history and tradition woven into this six-yard wonder, the saree will live on through our traditions and culture. At Koskii, it is our pleasure to contribute in some way to this illustrious tradition. We house both handcrafted and machine-produced sarees. Explore our collection to find sarees that fit your style and budget.